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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.